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For more than 30 years, Jean Paul Gaultier has waved the “enfant terrible” flag in French fashion. He is one of those designers whose vivid public persona (like Betsey Johnson’s, say, or even Karl Lagerfeld’s) might approach self-caricature—but also is a formidable marketing force, an invaluable part of the brand. So what is shorthand for Gaultier? Breton stripe, peroxided hair, brilliant tailoring—and a cheeky, cheerful irreverence. It was perfect casting when Vogue dressed the designer as the grinning, inscrutable Cheshire cat in its oft-referenced 2003 “Alice and Wonderland” romp: This, after all, is a man known for wearing a kilt and a broad smile of delight when taking his runway bows.
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